Visiting The Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site

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A group of strangers mill around an unremarkable bus stop sign. Finally, one stranger asks, “Is anyone else visiting the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site?” The other strangers reply, “Yes.”

The reservation directions say a shuttle picks visitors up at the Museum of San Ramon Valley in Danville, California. There are no specific signs that this is where the National Park shuttle stops. There is just a plain sign that reads, Bus Stop. A plaque outside the museum discusses the Noble Prize winning playwright. We aren’t sure it means this is the shuttle stop. We are all a bit nervous about missing the shuttle, but safety in numbers. The shuttle can’t leave us all, can it?

Right on time, a small unmarked bus pulls to the curb.

Nothing on the vehicle indicates this is a National Park bus. The driver opens the door and asks, “Who is here for the National Park Site?” The strangers create an orderly line. The driver has a list of our names. It’s reassuring. One by one, we load on the bus. Two empty seats mean someone who secured one of the coveted reservations did not show up. “Whelp, we are on a strict schedule. We can’t wait for no-shows,” said the bus driver, swiftly shutting the door. The bus winds through Danville’s charming downtown. After passing shops and cafes, we stop at a closed gate. The gate lifts, giving us entrance to a lovely residential neighborhood filled with custom homes. Each home represents the style of the decade that it was built in. The bus stops in front of a house at the back of the neighborhood.

A Park Ranger greets us. The group exits the bus. We must stay together and never wander out of the Park Ranger’s sight.

It makes sense now why there are only two tour times a day with limited space. Why the shuttle is plain and unassuming. We are in an active residential neighborhood. The residents would not appreciate hordes of National Park visitors causing traffic jams, parking in front of their homes, or strolling their gated community streets. Of all of the National Park historic homes we’ve toured, visiting the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site was one of our more unique experiences.

The House Tour

Park Ranger Nicko explained the purpose of today’s tour. First it is to acknowledge Eugene O’Neill’s contribution to literature and theater. Next, it is to admire the house’s remarkable architecture and design. Though a brilliant, history-making playwright, O’Neill was allegedly a terrible husband and father and, at times, an unkind human. Today we will need to separate the art from the artist.

The rules for the next two hours are explained. We are to stay with the tour guide/group at all times. We are to stay behind the barriers set up in various rooms. We cannot touch anything unless given permission. Unlike some National Park historic homes where the interiors are reproductions of the time period, the majority of the furniture and décor are original. When visiting the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site, the home’s Asian-influenced design stood out the moment we stepped through the door. Mr. O’Neill and his third wife, Carlotta Monterey, loved Asian art and culture. The couple named the house they built together Tao House.

The National Park Tour did a wonderful job weaving the design of various rooms with the history and story of the Noble and Pulitzer Prize winning writer.
Eugene O’Neill suffered a traumatic childhood and a turbulent young life. He used his personal experiences to create his complex characters.

Our tour group meanders from room to room, noting the Guardian Lions, dragons, and other decorative accents.

A highlight for me while visiting the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site was the story behind the writer’s antique bed. The bed was originally purchased from the famous San Francisco store, Gump’s. Before moving back to the East Coast, the bed was sold back to Gump’s. When the National Historic Site was established, they contacted Gump’s to see if they could display the bed in the house once more. Gump’s would not oblige. Famed actress Katherine Hepburn to the rescue. She wrote Gump’s a strongly worded letter, and the bed was returned to the National Park Site. Park Ranger Nicko showed us the bed, told us the story, and read Ms. Hepburn’s letter out loud.

My favorite room in Tao House was the study. This California trip was a trip of notable studies. We saw a recreation of artist and cartoonist Charles M. Schulz.

Read about our visit to the Charles M. Schulz Museum

The Walt Disney Family Museum had a recreation of Mr. Disney’s study.
Another California National Historic Site workspace was John Muir’s study at the John Muir National Historic Site.

Read about our visit to the John Muir National Historic Site

I love studies. They give a glimpse into an artist’s creative process.

I like to think that standing in the space infuses one with a smidge of lingering inspiration.

National Park Passport Stamp

Like all good tourist attractions, you exit the home through the gift shop. The gift shop is where you obtain your National Park Passport Stamp.

We almost forgot to get a stamp at the end. Our routine is to get our stamp first, then set off to explore a park site.

The Grounds

After a few minutes of walking around the gift shop, the group is politely told to exit the house. We are set free to roam the grounds until it’s time to board the bus. The grounds include the barn where the couple kept various farm animals. The main feature is the grave site of O’Neill’s beloved dog, Blemie.

Visit completed, we board the small shuttle bus and are dropped off at the unremarkable bus stop sign.

Important Information

Tickets/Reservations

When visiting the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site, you MUST make a reservation. It is suggested to make your reservation at least two weeks in advance. We made our reservation as soon as we knew the day we wanted to visit. Tours do not operate on Monday and Tuesday. On Wednesday-Sunday, there is a 10 am tour and a 2 pm tour. Space is extremely limited. There is no online reservation calendar. You either email your visit request or call using the phone number on the National Park website.

Getting There/Shuttle Stop

A free parking lot adjacent to the San Ramon Valley Museum.

Though the instructions state to meet at the San Ramon Valley Museum, there is no obvious National Park sign for the exact meeting spot. The shuttle spot is at the front of the museum by the sign that reads “Bus Stop.” There is also a nearby plaque with information about Eugene O’Neill.

Restrooms

Behind the museum is an old train car that houses public restrooms. Tao House has a single visitor restroom.

Food and Drink

No food or drinks are permitted on the tour. Downtown Danville has places to grab a coffee, breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I highly suggest leaving time to explore downtown Danville. It is a cute, walkable town filled with shops, cafes, and restaurants. If you are a fellow ice cream enthusiast, stop by Lottie’s Creamery. Their scoops go a step beyond typical flavors. I savored their creamy Cinnamon Honey Graham.

Each flavor stood out on its own, but the combination blended well. The cinnamon was the perfect amount. It didn’t overpower the honey and graham.

Conclusion

The Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site is one of the least visited National Park System Units. The first reason is the logistics. You must secure a spot on the tour. You then have to plan your day around getting to Danville, California, catching the shuttle bus, and allowing at least to hours to tour the home. The other is that many people don’t know who Eugene O’Neill is.

I enjoy learning about artists’ lives, especially writers. Visiting the Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site was essential for this theater fan. Even if you don’t know a lot about theater or the award-winning playwright, the house, the history of the time period, and learning about how Tao House became a National Park site make it worth the visit.

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