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The tunnel is empty. Where are the Instagramers I read so many complaints about? The Cypress Tunnel is one of the most popular spots to visit at Point Reyes National Seashore. I don’t take the lack of tourists for granted. I quickly get to work taking pictures. A local pulls up and expresses his surprise at the peaceful tunnel moment. We are joyful. He is grumpy. The man laments that this wonder used to be a “hidden gem.” “Now that everyone carries a camera in their pocket, the tunnel gets clogged with amateur photographers,” says the man. I guiltily take a selfie in the famous Cypress Tree Tunnel.
But First, Coffee, Breakfast, and Gas
The day started as every good day should, with coffee. There is a single gas station in the aptly named town of Point Reyes Station. If you need gas before entering Point Reyes National Seashore in California, this is your last chance. In addition to fueling your vehicle, you can also fuel up your body at Point Reyes Station. We stopped at Bovine Bakery and started the day with coffee and ham and cheese croissants.
The baked goods on display were too tempting to resist, so we also purchased cookies to munch during our National Park day. Everything from Bovine Bakery was tasty. So tasty, we stopped again the next day before hitting the road for our next Northern California National Park.
Point Reyes Lighthouse
The scenery wows the minute our car enters the park. I want to stop immediately, but my research informed me to visit Point Reyes Lighthouse first. The park weather is unpredictable. The lighthouse closes for heavy fog, wind, or other inclement weather. If the weather is clear when you enter the park, head straight for the lighthouse. We are happy we did. The fog rolled in shortly after we left the parking lot.
At first, the 313 steps to the Point Reyes Lighthouse look intimidating, but as long as you don’t have severe mobility issues, the steps are doable. There are landings, complete with benches, offering resting points along the stairs. At the bottom, our efforts were rewarded with spectacular views and an up close look at the light’s mechanics.
Read about our visit to Point Reyes Lighthouse
Elephant Seal Overlook and Chimney Rock Trail
After visiting the lighthouse, the next nearby spots to visit at Point Reyes National Seashore were Chimney Rock Trail and Elephant Seal Overlook. Although we’ve spent multiple days at some National Park sites like Volcanoes National Park we usually plan one-day visits for most parks.
Read about our visit to Volcanoes National Park
During our visit, we wanted to see a variety of spots to visit at Point Reyes National Seashore, so we opted to hike the shortest trail.
Due to limited parking, it’s wise to hike Chimney Rock Trail in the morning. Make it your second stop after the lighthouse. If you don’t want to hike the hour-long Chimney Rock Trail, at least take the five-minute walk to Elephant Seal Overlook. Elephant Seal Overlook was one of my favorite places at Point Reyes National Seashore. Despite the moody fog rolling in, we peered over the cliff and glimpsed dozens of seals snoozing on the beach below.
After getting our fill of seal views, we followed the trail. The Chimney Rock Trail was an easy dirt path. There is a slight, easy incline nears the end.
The tree lined trail gave way to coastal grasslands.
The sprawling brown grass and swirling fog made the hike feel melancholy and slightly foreboding. I vacillated between disappointment over our obstructed views of the ocean and intoxication with the mesmerizing, somber atmosphere. It felt like being dropped into a Bronte novel.
The hike concludes at a scenic point. A railing warns hikers not to go out to the edge. The rock has a habit of crumbling beneath hikers’ feet. My self-preservation instinct is stronger than my desire for views and likes on social media. We stand at the railing. Due to the fog, we are unable to catch a proper glimpse of the ocean. While admiring the setting despite the fog, two hikers approached, climbed under the barrier, and made their way to the edge for photos. That was our cue to turn around and walk back to the car. On the trail, we heard the grass rustling. At first, we thought a small dog was romping through the grass. Glancing around to spot its owner, we saw no humans on the trail. Quickly, we realized this was a wildlife sighting. It seemed unwise to get closer, so we couldn’t exactly identify the fuzzy mammal.
Since we expected we’d only see seals on this venture, we were excited about the bonus wildlife.
Drake’s Beach
After two spots to visit at Point Reyes National Seashore that featured the cliffs from above, it seemed only right to see the cliffs from below. We made our way to Drake’s Beach. Visiting on a weekday meant plenty of parking and fewer crowds. It also meant that the Ken C. Patrick Visitor Center was closed. We peeked through the windows. The exhibits were so close, yet so far. Though the exhibits are locked up tight, the Visitor Center’s restrooms remained open. The hiking trailheads only have pit toilets. Drake’s Beach’s flushing toilets make an ideal bathroom break.
As the fog held its grasp on the scenery, the reality of walking Drake’s Beach was better than the pictures taken.
The ocean on one side and the cliffs on the other was an impressive sight. It makes one feel very small compared to nature’s majesty. There were only a few people strolling along the coastline, making it feel like we had the beach to ourselves. In addition to the Elephant Seal Overlook, Drake’s Beach is known for seal watching. Sadly, there were no seals lazing on the beach, but we did see a lot of birds.
The Cypress Tunnel and The KPH Maritime Radio Receiving Station
Finding that time was no longer on our side, we headed straight to the Cypress Tunnel. The Cypress Tunnel is a prime example of nature becoming art. The Monterey Cypress trees were planted in the 1930s to line the driveway to the KPH Maritime Radio Receiving Station. The trees lean towards each other, creating a magical, natural tunnel.
It’s one of the most popular spots to visit at Point Reyes National Seashore and is usually packed with tourists. I was mentally prepared to struggle for a good pic. We were shocked to find it empty. Pictures don’t do it justice. It’s a wild creation you must see with your own eyes.
We wandered down the long driveway, now a walking path, to admire the Radio Station’s Art Deco architecture. Saturday is the only day the building is open for tours. You must reserve a tour in advance as space is extremely limited.
There is no parking lot for the Cypress Tree Tunnel. Parking on the side of the road is permitted.
Bear Valley Visitors Center
We hightailed it back to the car to get one more National Park Passport stamp before the building closed at 5:00 pm. Bear Valley Visitors Center is the Park Site’s main visitors center. It’s most people’s first stop at Point Reyes National Seashore. Since we wanted to visit the lighthouse first, we did Bear Valley on our way out of the park. Our final wildlife encounter occurred in Bear Valley’s parking lot as a snake slithered across the asphalt.
I know we watched the film, but I don’t remember enough of it to give a proper review.
With closing time approaching, we had 20 minutes to get our stamp and peruse the exhibits before the doors were locked.
Point Reyes Shipwreck
Though technically located on National Park Service land, the Point Reyes Shipwreck is more roadside attraction than National Park attraction. It is located in downtown Inverness behind the Inverness Store. A man purchased the dilapidated boat with the intention of fixing it up. He eventually abandoned the project. The ramshackle structure is now a popular photo spot.
The National Park plans to remove the boat someday. Get your pictures while you can.
Post-Visit
Ice Cream
There was one essential stop to make before the day ended. At the back of the Palace Market grocery store in Point Reyes Station sat an unassuming counter. The counter served a holy grail for ice cream enthusiasts, buffalo milk soft-serve. For me, this was one of the most anticipated activities of our trip. The vanilla buffalo milk soft-serve was simultaneously creamy and airy-light. Unlike cow’s milk ice cream, it doesn’t sit heavy in your stomach. It tasted indulgent yet wholesome. The ice cream was a foodie must for National Park visitors. It was one of my top unique travel ice creams.
Unfortunately, the new owner of the water buffalo herd found it more lucrative to sell all the buffalo milk to mozzarella manufacturers, leaving no milk for the ice cream creamery. It was a huge disappointment to the ice cream enthusiast community. The closest ice cream to the texture and taste of the buffalo milk soft serve was the sheep milk soft serve we tasted in Quebec City.
Read about Eating Quebec City Ice Cream
Dinner
For dinner, we chose The Original Station House Café. It is a farm-to-table restaurant that uses locally sourced ingredients. I got the Steamed Mussels. The mussels arrived in green curry coconut milk broth with ginger, lime, and cilantro. The dish was slightly spicy with a tangy, citrus finish. The mussels were tender and meaty without an ounce of chewiness. No mussels since have ever come close to being as delicious as this mussels dish.
Shannon got the Lamb Bolognese. Lamb ragu, served over egg pappardelle pasta. He was equally pleased with his dish. I had a bite. It was outstanding. I highly recommend having dinner at The Original Station House Café. We still discuss this stellar travel meal.
Extra Information
-There are no restaurants or food stops within the park’s main loop. At Point Reyes Station, you can grab yummy baked goods at Bovine Bakery or some snacks and easy breakfast/lunch items at The Palace Market. If like us, you are staying at Olema House, you can grab a quick breakfast, snacks, and lunches-to-go at the Due West Market.
Read about our Stay at Olema House
-The best bathroom breaks in the park are at the Bear Valley Visitors Center, The Lighthouse, and Drake’s Beach.
-If you want to hike some of the longer trails, plan at least two or three park days.
Conclusion
So far we’ve visited five of ten National Seashores. Although we haven’t seen them all yet, Point Reyes National Seashore is our favorite so far. The lighthouse is one-of-a-kind. The seal spotting is fun, and the scenery is dramatic and stunning. It is a National Seashore not to be missed.
Find A Place to Stay at Point Reyes National Seashore
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