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Passenger comments erupt, as the truck bounces to Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach.
“This is insane!”
“What the *** !”
“Why did we want to do this?”
We wanted to do this because there are only four green sand beaches in the world. They are located in Guam, Norway, The Galapagos, and Hawaii.
On Hawaii’s Big Island, there is a long stretch of road that leads through the Mahana Bay area, ending at the parking lot, for Papakolea Beach, Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach.
The rental car passes multiple farms. Wind Turbines spin. Cattle roam. The sky is a vibrant blue,
inhabited by cheerful, puffy, clouds. The car arrives at a dirt, parking lot.
From the parking lot, one must decide how to get to the beach. You can hike the 5.5 mile round-trip, out-and-back, trail, or you can ride to the beach in a truck.
Hike
Because of my auto-immune diseases, I research all hikes. I read posts, I watch YouTube videos, and I know the hike, to the beach, is not doable. The hiking trail is in the blazing sun, with zero shade, though the views, you get near the water, are glorious.
From what I research, no matter how well you prepare, most people end up sunburnt, dehydrated, and due to the landscape, and constant island breeze, completely covered in dust. Even avid hikers I come across, rate the hike as a miserable experience.
Still, there are only four green sand beaches in the world, and we don’t know if we will ever visit the other destinations. Therefore, to get to Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach, we take the truck.
Truck Ride
If you read an official website for Papakolea Beach, they state that the trucks are, “against the rules.” From what I learn, though not officially sanctioned, the rule against the trucks, is not enforced in any way. Nevertheless, taking the truck, is a controversial decision.
The trucks are operated by locals, who have a very organized system.
The first pickup truck in line is full, so the next pickup truck in line, recruits us. The driver introduces himself as Uncle Eddie. It costs $25, cash, per person, for a round-trip ride. If we want to hike to the beach, then decide to take a truck back (a common occurrence), a one-way ride is also $25 per person. Uncle Eddie is friendly and kind. After assembling ten passengers, he sets down a stepstool, and instructs us to climb into the pick-up truck’s bed. The truck is standing room only.
I know from my research on Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach, the ride is jarring. After the first few minutes, everyone’s hands, including ours, firmly grip the bar that surrounds the bed’s edge. The initial thought is that this is a great opportunity to get video and pictures. After the first dramatic jolt, phones are immediately stored in bags and pockets. There is no doubt they will fly out of hand, and plummet to the rocks below.
I smile to myself, thinking, I’m a professional travel content creator. I have my DJ Pocket camera, with wrist strap. I learn this too, is a lost cause. One hand is tightly gripping the bar, while my camera arm wildly flails.
There are pre-determined roads the trucks take through the cliffs. During the drive, the truck dives head first down a hill, then leans thrillingly backward, to ascend. It is like we are on a roller coaster. At other times, the truck tilts vigorously to the right or left. Some passengers yelp, fearing the truck might tip over. From research, I know that though the twists and turns feel crazy, we are safe. Uncle Eddie’s maneuvers are slow and deliberate. I’m soaking up the experience. The stunning landscape unfolds, as we travel closer to the beach. The vivid water, stretches out to our right.
We are inspired, when not fully focused on avoiding a tumble down the truck’s side.
After twenty minutes, we arrive at our destination. The step stool reappears, and we exit the truck.
Uncle Eddie gives us a return time, then offers to take pictures. A nice extra perk.
The view from the top of the cliff, is magnificent.
Sculpted cinder cones rise up over the ombre blue water. There is a strong craving, to get a closer look.
If your mobility isn’t good, descending the cliff to Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach, takes moderate physical ability. First you must clamber down stairs.
The stairs.
Then climb down the path, carved through the cliff.
I read that depending on the sun, clouds, lighting, etc, you may not be able to see the green, but on this bright, clear, day, the green is brilliant.
The mineral that composes Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach, is called Olivine. I encourage you to fall down a science internet hole, to learn all of the details of how specific volcanic cinder cones, are broken down by waves, causing this rare color of sand. The name fits, as the green is more of an olive green, than a grassy green.
In certain spots, the beach looks blinged with gold.
We only go into the waves up to our ankles.
There are swimmers, who venture out farther. The waves are aggressive. I witness several people having intense wipe-outs.
After splashing around for a few minutes, we sit in the cliff’s shade, quietly appreciating the privilege of witnessing this remarkable location with our own eyes. There are other visitors, but the beach is not over-crowded.
Uncle Eddie gives us an hour to enjoy Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach. An advantage to doing the hike, is that you have no set return time. Though I can’t speak from experience, it seems that you can work out a way to take a later ride back. Since the beach is small, and surrounded by cinder cones, the only activities are sitting on/walking on the beach, and splashing in the water. For our purposes, the hour given is sufficient.
We climb back up the cliff, in time for our truck’s departure.
Uncle Eddie, takes a headcount, then pulls out the now-familiar stepstool. There are grumpy murmurs, from fellow passengers, about having to take the jostling truck ride back. I’m all smiles, enjoying the excitement of doing something other than sitting in front of a computer (like many of my days).
The truck ride back is uneventful, accept for the constant diving, leaning, and tilting. We thank Uncle Eddie, and disembark.
Important Information
-There are no changing rooms, in the parking lot, or at Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach. If you want to swim, you should wear your swimsuit under your clothes.
-There are no showers, or anywhere to rinse off. You will get sandy and possibly dusty. I had extra water left over in my reusable water bottle. I used it to rinse off my feet and legs, before getting into the rental car.
-Wear sensible clothes and shoes. Even if you don’t do the hike and take the truck, you will still have to complete the moderate climb up and down the cliff.
-On the cliff, there is a picnic table overlooking the beach.
-There are no trash cans, so anything you bring, you must carry out.
-*There are NO RESTROOMS at the beach. There is one very old, very dirty, portable bathroom, in the parking lot. The ride is very jiggly on the bladder.
Punalu’u Bake Shop
Not too far from Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach, is the Punalu’u Bake Shop and Visitors Center. They have clean, public restrooms. It’s a good place to stop.
The Punalu’u Bake Shop, is the Southernmost Bakery, in the United States. They are most known for their Lilikoi (Passion Fruit) Glazed Malasadas. Feeling our quest was a success, we celebrate with malasadas and hibiscus iced teas.
Their garden seating area is peaceful. We are visited by a bird and a cat. The treats are tasty. It’s a pleasant moment of relaxation, before the long drive to a lava field, to check into Open Gate Hostel.
Visiting Hawaii’s Green Sand Beach, is an adventurous, travel experiences. It left me captivated.
Listening to comments around me, it was a little too much adventure for some. Is it a bonkers ride? Yes. Is it worth it? Absolutely. The scenery is spectacular, and knowing that we visited one of the four green sand beaches in the world, is an experience I will never forget.
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