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As our Wonder Wheel car descends, the train of the Phoenix Roller Coaster, whooshes past. It’s a
moment where the past meets the present, while visiting Coney Island Boardwalk, in New York. A structure built to dazzle visitors in 1920, sits directly next to the steel, suspended, roller coaster, opened in 2021.
Dr. Kay Redfield Jamison states, “Play is not a luxury. Play is a necessity.” It’s a quote I fully endorse. Life is hard. Being a responsible adult is exhausting. Work is work. It’s true today. It was true in the early
1900s. As more and more people moved into New York City for work, they were caught in the wave of
hustle, and that wave caused them to wash upon the shores of Coney Island.
Though accessible by train, just as it was in the early days, we drive to Coney Island. Knowing we are
plunging into an unfamiliar, tourist hot spot, we eat the cost to park in a paid parking lot, and stroll up to the boardwalk.
We are visiting Coney Island for the history. The history of fun.
My eyes alight as the parachute tower comes into view.
Once considered a boardwalk blight, this restored structure, first appeared at the 1939 World’s Fair. Though no longer in operation, this National Historic Landmark, reminds visitors that Coney Island began the American revolution of amusement park fun.
Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs
After a morning visiting two of the four Gateway National Recreation Area sites, we are hungry. I’m sure
there are lots of tasty places to eat on the Coney Island Boardwalk, but since we are visiting Coney Island
for history, eating at Nathan’s Famous Hot Dogs, is a must.
In 1916, people were suspicious of inexpensive hot dogs. To boost , business, owner Nathan Handwerker, paid men to dress like doctors, visit his hotdog stand, and eat a hot dog. People thought if doctors eat Nathan’s hotdogs, they must be good. Genius psychological manipulation/marketing.
The original Nathan’s Famous, still grills up hotdogs on the Coney Island Boardwalk. It’s a piece of United
States, food, history.
The line is long, but moves fast.
The original Coney Island stand, keeps offerings to a minimum. We each order a hot dog with
sauerkraut. I order a bacon cheese dog (for research), and Shannon orders a chili cheese dog. An order
of large fries is shared, as is a large orangeade. Used to the high priced/ stingy drink sizes, at the
Southern, New Jersey Shore, we’re taken aback that the large drink, is truly large.
Nathan’s seating area is modest, and it’s mobbed on a Saturday. Spotting an open bench overlooking
the beach, I powerwalk, weaving through people-traffic, like a Coney Island Boardwalk version of Frogger.
Our expectations are not high. Eating at the original Nathan’s Famous, is an obligatory, Coney Island Boardwalk, activity. The assumption is that the food will be mediocre, tourist, fare. There is delight upon finding that the food is actually yummy.
The grilled hot dogs are flavorful, with a nice snap. In fact, we agree that the dogs with sauerkraut and mustard are the best. The bacon and cheese, and chili and cheese, are a bit much, and detract from
the flavor of the hot dog. The fries are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The orangeade is
refreshing. It’s a pleasant surprise when something is touristy and excellent.
Amusement Parks
There are two, separate amusement parks, on the Coney Island Boardwalk. One is Luna Park, run by Italy’s,
Zamperla Company, and the other is Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park, run by the Vourderis Family.
Each park is free to enter, but requires separate ride payment.
At first I find the inability to get one pass to ride rides in both parks annoying, but I understand why an
amusement family legacy, like the Vourderis Family, does not want to sell out to a large amusement
corporation like Zamperla.
Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park
Visiting Coney Island for the history, we must ride The Wonder Wheel.
Deno’s Amusement Park rides cost tickets. One dollar=one ticket. There are discounts if you purchase a ticket package. The Wonder Wheel costs 10 tickets per person per ride. Since this is the only ride on our
Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park list, we hand over our $20 at the ticket booth.
After a long, hot, morning, hiking and walking, at National Park sites, we’re looking forward to a leisurely ride on the wheel. Therefore we board one of the outer, stationary, white cars, instead of the inner, red
and blue cars, that slide, whoosh, and rock.
This Ferris Wheel made its debut in 1920, and its unique cars, convince us of its old-timey, status. Instead of most wheels, with benches set across from each other, The Wonder Wheel has a front seat and
backseat.
The cars are surrounded by a considerable safety cage.
It’s a nice long ride, completing two full rotations. At the top, we see beach and ocean scenery on one
side, and views of Deno’s Park and Luna Park, on the other.
I imagine what it was like to ride in 1920. Were people completely astonished? I can’t believe I’m riding the same wheel, people rode over 100 years ago.
Luna Park
Originally opened in 1903, Luna Park experienced many tragedies and transformations, and continues to
endure.
Like many boardwalk, amusement parks, Luna Park, offers unlimited ride bands. Unlike most parks,
there’s a catch. Instead of having access to rides for the entire day, the bands only offer unlimited rides
for four hours. Given the crowd level, and cost of the band, we determine it’s not worth the cost. We abandon our plan to ride all of the rides, and stick with the most significant.
Purchasing individual ride tickets is also available at Luna Park. At Luna Park, one dollar = one ticket.
The Coney Island Cyclone
As amusement rides gained popularity in the United States, many considered them of the devil.
Amusements attracted young people. The rides amped them up. Roller coasters were considered
especially salacious. Not only did the drops excite, the twists and turns caused boys and girls to press against each other. In a constant repeat of history, the more young people were dissuaded from visiting
amusements, the more they wanted to visit.
Wanting to capitalize on the popularity of thrills, the Rosenthal brothers had a new Coney Island, roller
coaster built.
Opening June 26th 1927, the Coney Island Cyclone, was an immediate success.
After World War II, the Coney Island Boardwalk, fell out of fashion. By the 1960s, it was in complete decline. The Coney Island Cyclone, deteriorated, and was set to be demolished. A group of very passionate locals and roller coaster enthusiasts banned together to form the, “Save the Cyclone,” group. Thanks to these lovers of coasters and history, people continue riding The Cyclone today.
The coaster went through a major refurbishment between 2011-2016, to improve safety, and make the
track smoother. The original layout however, remains unchanged.
Once I see how steep the drops are, I chicken out. Shannon, ever the coaster enthusiast, joins the
queue.
He proclaims the coaster, “a good ride.” Though built in 1927, the ride has a thrilling speed,
action-packed drops, and fun airtime. It’s a must for coaster enthusiasts.
The B&B Carousell
A ride more my speed, I’m ready to take a ride on the Coney Island Boardwalk’s, B&B Carousell. As soon as I see the building, I’m in love.
Though crafted in Coney Island, this early 1900s carousel, first lived at New Jersey’s, Asbury Park. In
1932, it relocated, to its, Coney Island birthplace, beckoning visitors to take a whirl on this gorgeous piece of art.
I purchase my ride ticket, at the carousel’s booth. It makes me sad, that on a day of high crowds, only a
few others join the ride.
First, I’m thrilled that the horses are hand-carved, hand painted, and wooden.
Even rarer, the horses have real, horse hair tails.
The ride is slow, and the music is faint. I’m ecstatic for the opportunity to ride a historic, creative vision,
that withstands time.
Coney Cones
Did you even visit an East Coast Boardwalk, if you didn’t get a frozen treat? Aptly named, Coney Cones,
serves up scoops of creamy gelato.
As soon as we see the Milano cookie flavor, we know it’s a must-try.
The texture and flavors are delicious, but I could have used more cookie in my scoop.
If your idea of fun is a quiet, secluded beach, where the only sound you hear is the waves. If your soul longs for a sophisticated restaurant, overlooking a picturesque, calm bay, Coney Island Boardwalk, may not be your ideal destination.
Visiting on an in-season weekend, we expected the boardwalk to be crowded, and the prices to be steep.
Being a city-adjacent, beach area, we assumed Coney Island Boardwalk, wouldn’t be the pristinely clean, quiet, boardwalk, you would find at a destination in the middle of nowhere (there was a man on the boardwalk that day, blowing his air-horn as a type of busker, entertainment).
We visit Coney Island Boardwalk for the history. We endeavor to see what is hailed as the birthplace of American chaos and fun. And fun we had. The historic rides are well-loved and cared for. The food is enjoyable. That is all we expected out of this visit, and the Coney Island Boardwalk, delivered.
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