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Atop the overlook, I gaze down at Kehena Black Sand Beach. The green of the trees and the blue of the sky, vibrantly shout against the volcanic rock and sand. It begs to be photographed. Snap, snap, snap.
After climbing down, my bare feet sink into the sand. I scan the beach, searching for more shots. Hmmm…something about this beach seems different. At first I can’t quite identify it, but as I frame my next picture, realization strikes me, this Hawaiian beach, is clothing optional.
The desire is to see all three sand beaches. A red sand beach, a green sand beach, and a black sand beach. The most popular black sand beach, on the Hawaiian Islands, is the beach at Wai’anapanapa State Park, on Maui. We decide to skip this beach, in favor of visiting a black sand beach, closer to Volcanoes National Park.
Marissa, at Open Gate Hostel, gives excellent directions to Kehena Beach. If staying at this lava field accommodation, the beach is a great, nearby, activity.
As we turn out of the hostel’s driveway we experience another travel first. We pick up a hitchhiker. Yes, I know, I listen to True Crime podcasts, but she is a small, young, lady, who looks desperate, as the bright, Hawaiian sun, sizzles over the lava field. The Gen Z, New Englander, visited Hawaii for a yoga retreat, fell in love with the landscape and people, and is now a yoga instructor herself. Her truck broke down, it needed to be fixed, she has to pick it up, and as it turns out, her destination is on our way.
Wishing our brief travel companion well, we find the parking lot for Kehena Black Sand Beach. Like the Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach in Hana, the path to the beach is not obvious. There is a woman in front of us, guiding two senior citizens. We follow them. It’s more rock scramble, than smooth hiking trail.
At the end of the path, there is a ladder. It’s sturdy, well built, and requires precise timing. You stand on the last rung, wait until the wave consumes the space under the ladder, then quickly jump down and power walk across the beach, before the next wave is unleashed.
Black sand beaches are formed from volcanic material. Kehena Black Sand Beach, was formed during the 1955 eruption.
There are rocky spots, yet worn down.
The sand is burning hot and aggressively adheres to your skin. We skip a swim, but the word is, if you swim out far enough, you may encounter/swim with dolphins.
We spend two-and-a-half weeks in Hawaii, across three islands. It is a grand adventure. Everyone we meet is friendly and kind, until Kehena Black Sand Beach. We name her, Karen (sorry all Karens, I know it’s a tough burden to bear). She is a rail thin, older woman, with long white hair. Ambling along the volcanic sand, she voices out loud, to no one particular, her disdain for tourists invading her beach. There are maybe eight tourists, the rest of the beach is occupied by locals. She continues her complaints as she sheds her clothes. Her skin and the sun appear to be good friends. Donning a mask and snorkel, Karen announces grandly that she is going to swim with her dolphins. She disappears into the waves. A nearby man, never looks up from his book. There are no glances from the two ladies, playing in the water with their dogs.
I conclude the locals must be used to Karen.
The most challenging aspect of the visit, is getting pictures. I want to respect privacy, so I make an effort to only capture the areas without humans.
The beach is small, and tucked in by rocks and trees. It’s an outstanding site.
Post-visit, I learn that public nudity is illegal in Hawaii. Authorities make surprise visits to the beach to issue monetary citations. If you are visiting the beach for a sans-garment frolic, you’ve been warned. Unlike the nude beach at Canaveral National Seashore, whose birthday-suited visitors are of retirement age, Kehena Black Sand Beach’s, unclad, span a wide range of ages. If that is something that you’d rather not experience, you’ve been warned.
There are only a few places in the world where you can stroll along a volcanic beach. The deep black sand makes the surrounding colors pop. It’s fascinating to know you are walking on the remnants of a volcanic explosion. Whether Kehena Black Sand Beach, or another, when visiting Hawaii, you should encounter at least one.
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Ivan
atThanks for this very vivid report.
The way how you explained that descending from the ladder is hilarious 🙂
It’s like a modern version of the “floor is lava” game.
I love black-sand beaches, but I think I’ve only been to one (in Tenerife). “I think” is for the possibility that I was on another one in Brazil too, but rather shortly, so it even washed away from my memory.
In any case, this seems to be a beautiful spot, naked or not.
ROXIE YONKEY
atFascinating and enchanting.